Feminine Giles: Deacon Takes Creative Helm at Troubled Ungaro

After ousting wunderkind Esteban Cortazar last summer, the owners of fashion house Emanuel Ungaro teamed under-the-radar designer Estrella Archs with “artistic adviser” Lindsay Lohan. The befuddling move made for a disjointed spring 2010 collection that looked cribbed from Lohan’s bulging closets: here a Herve Leger-flavored bondage dress, there a ruched legging (in safety orange, no less). A smattering of airbrush-y prints was involved, as were bikini tops cinched with fist-sized enamel hearts. The vibe was very resort gift shop. Archs was on her own for Ungaro’s fall 2010 collection, shown earlier this year in Paris, but it was too little, too late. The house has just announced that established designer Giles Deacon is taking over as creative director. He will show his first collection for Ungaro this fall. “I’m 40 years old and I have pretty good experience in the industry. I don’t pretend to have all the answers but I hope some of my experience will help,” Deacon told British Vogue. “We’re also bringing a really good, experienced team on board—[stylist extraordinaire] Katie Grand is joining us—so it will take on a new design perspective and hopefully we’ll make it really interesting and relevant for people.” The designer, whose own line is known for its come-hither wit, is out to capture a distinctly Parisian aesthetic in his new post. “With Ungaro we’ll be working with lace, a whole different color palette, differing prints, interesting cuts.”